VW Jetta Ignition Switch Problem – What Can You Do to Solve It?

Have you ever had to turn the key hard to start your Volkswagen Jetta? Or, if the key didn't turn off, you couldn't remove it either. In many circumstances, the ignition's rigidity creates excessive turning force, which damages the remote key.

Ignition problems highlights

• Level of urgency:high
• DIY inspection:possible but complicated
• DIY repairs:usually,impossible
• Can you drive?no
• Price of repairs:$5 - $350
• If ignored:no start
• Ways to fix:check batteries, try another key fob, inspect and locate the issue

How Does Jetta's Ignition Switch Work

To learn how to change the ignition switch on your VW Jetta, you must first understand how the ignition switch works. Your Jetta's ignition switch has a lock cylinder. Behind the lock cylinder is the ignition switch.

This piece is threefold. The first-position key should power accessories and enables the power windows, radio, and other Jetta accessories. This position also activates the ignition and gasoline pump. Now that the fuel rails are pressurized, the engine is ready to fire the plugs. Finally, the start position fires up the engine. When your Jetta is operating, the ignition "rests."

What Problems Indicate There's a Problem with Your Volkswagen Jetta Ignition Switch?

Here are the most common Jetta ignition switch failure indicators:

• Roadblocks

Bad ignition switches cause stalling. The defective switch shuts off the fuel pump or ignition, stalling your Jetta.

• The Jetta's Engine Dies

If your Volkswagen Jetta starts and dies, the ignition switch is likely faulty. The ignition and fuel pump don't receive power in the run position. Instead, the starter engages the power. When you turn the key, everything starts. But you turn off your Jetta, and the engine dies, indicating a problem with the ignition switch.

• The Jetta Doesn't Start

A faulty ignition switch can't start your Jetta and might prevent the car from starting in many ways. First, the starting turns, but the defective ignition switch doesn't start the fuel pump or ignition. Without ignition, the engine turns over. Second, the starter won't turn. A starting that won't turn generally means a defective battery or starter.

• Accessories without Power

The ignition switch powers up accessories. If your Jetta runs but nothing else does, it may have a faulty ignition system. Headlights, brake lights, horn, and dome light function without the key for safety. The ignition switch powers the power windows, sunroof, radio, rear defroster, and temperature control, so if many go wrong, check the ignition switch.

• Draining Battery

The reverse of the accessories, fuel pump, ECM, and ignition not getting power is if they do. You must first confirm that the ignition lock housing is the issue. By "feeling" the lock as you turn it from "Off" to "On," you can determine whether the key still spins. If the key turns smoothly until the steering column lock engages or disengages, the housing may be faulty.

If "bumping" the key moves the lock bolt, the ignition lock housing may be faulty. Likewise, if the lock cylinder spins freely when removed from the housing, the fault is likely in the housing. Don't spin the ignition lock housing without the cylinder. If you do, you'll cause a relock and must replace the housing. Never operate without the lock.

If the key doesn't turn, you can usually turn the lock enough to drive the car to your shop. If the key isn't stuck, build a mechanical key. After turning the mechanical key, you'll need the owner's key to start the automobile.

How to Replace Your Jetta Ignition Switch

Here are the steps to follow when replacing your Jetta's ignition switch:

• Shrouding

To remove the ignition lock case in this phase, try using the tilt-telescoping VW columns. Lower and remove the steering column after removing the top shroud. From the front of the bottom shroud, remove two Torx screws. You must spin the steering wheel and take out each part.

Even if you cannot start the engine, the ignition lock must be engaged to unlock the steering wheel. The tilt control lever is not far from the third Torx screw. You may then remove the bottom shroud from the column after removing it. Keep the bottom shroud in a safe place while you finish bending it to fit the ignition lock.

• Removing the SWPS

The Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) is just below the ignition lock casing. Use caution if your VW Jetta has an SWPS. It's expensive and prone to breaking. If you don't remove hidden snaps properly, they could break. You must also take out the front Torx screw of the SWPS. The SWPS won't rattle, thanks to that screw.

To safeguard the SWPS, VW advises cutting the battery's negative connection. After the battery has been disconnected, remove the SWPS. It would help if you had a strong wire, such as a bicycle spoke or a 2mm Allen key.

The front of the SWPS has a 2-inch hole where you should insert the wire. Then, while pushing the tool's handle end to the right, lever the plastic snap fitting to the left. Repeat the process for the rear plastic snap of the SWPS once the front has lowered.

Once the first clip is released, the rear one is simple. You may reach the clip by placing your finger between the column and the rear SWPS. Use a little screwdriver to locate the clip if you can't feel it, then press it to release the SWPS rear. While changing the ignition lock housing, keep the last SWPS cable attached and tuck it to the side. The SWPS should then be disconnected and carefully stored.

• Removing Lock Cylinder

You can complete this at any time. You can do it even after the lock housing is no longer on the column, but the proper tools are required. It would be beneficial if you had a piece of spring steel wire around the size of large paper clips. A large paperclip is less effective than spring steel. For instance, you may use the proper diameter of 0.04-inch radio wire from a hobby shop. The wire lowers the retainer.

The lock's face hole should allow the wire to pass through. Instead, it moves into a retaining hole that has an inclined ramp-like shape. The retainer lowers when you insert the wire because the tip rides the ramp. Using too thin or fragile wire can prevent the retainer from drawing down properly. For this reason, spring steel is preferable. Bevel the wire end using a file or wire-cutters to help the ride up the ramp.

Turn the Jetta lock to "On" before inserting the wire, where the notch in the lock face matches the lock shell. You can't reach the retainer of the lock till then. Turn the wire, so the slope fits into the angled hole when it reaches the retainer. A wire push will halt it.

The lock cylinder will move out of the housing when you lower the retainer. The transmitter ring from the lock cylinder exits with it. Keep in mind the way the transceiver wire descends the lock case. Route the wire in the same way when replacing the lock.

• Implementing Shear-Head Bolts

Producers of ignition locks often use shear-head bolts. Shear-head bolts are tightened in the manufacture until they shear off. Remove a headless bolt or rivet first, followed by two shear-head bolts, and then remove the ignition lock case. These bolts are hard to get since they are buried deep behind the plastic of a steering column.

Bolts with shearing heads are simple to remove. One approach is to use a drill bit. First, turn the drill bit tip around. Another reverse bit edge may bite into the bolt when the drill is deep enough. The drill bit will drill into the middle of the bolt when you operate your drill in reverse at the proper speed, and the tool's shoulder will then bite into the bolt to unscrew it.

To drill VW shear-head screws, use a drill with a 90-degree angle. Dash overhang makes it difficult for normal drills to reach the target directly.

Center-punch the bolt before you begin; otherwise, your bit will slip. On the other hand, don't drill too quickly, and keep the bit centered with the bolt. You should have the bolt on the bit after the bit's shoulder contacts the bolt and separates, leaving you with the bolt.

You can't use broken extractor bits to remove broken extractor bits from shear-head bolts. Instead, you'll need a sharp punch and a hammer to remove the bolt from your Jetta's ignition switch.

Please don't remove the shear-head bolt by enlarging the hole in the plastic above it. With patience, you could loosen and remove it without changing anything, but it won't be an issue if you bolt. However, suppose you intend to replace the shear. Then it shouldn't be an issue.

Use screw extractors after utilizing the hammer and punch method. The hammer-and-punch method calls for a powerful, precise punch. The punch should be long enough to avoid damaging your fingers or the automobile. To release the bolt, tilt the punch at an angle. With practice, you can use needle-nose pliers or your fingers to remove screws halfway to fully.

• Releasing the Ignition Lock Housing

Release the two ignition lock tabs after removing the two shear-head bolts. Again, avoiding causing harm to these assembly tabs would be beneficial. The new housing is held in place by these tabs so that you may begin the shear-head bolts without fumbling with the housing, bolts, and wrench. You may use a small screwdriver to raise one of the housing tabs. To remove the second tab, tilt the housing after removing the first one.

The housing connects with the vehicle via a cable and the wire harness for the ignition switch. Unplug the connection since the replacement housing will have a new ignition switch.

It's simple to unplug the transmission interlock cable. To get to the housing module, follow the cable. The module has only one screw. Once you remove the screw, the module slides free of the lock housing. Removing the module is made more accessible by cutting the electrical connection. With these final connections, you may install the new ignition housing for your Jetta. Then, follow the same steps in reverse.

Remember

It would be ideal if you started with a brand-new house. There are many housing options available. Get in touch with your local VW dealer to find out whether it has an appropriate part.

Dealers want the VIN to locate the component since so many variations are available. Before you call, be sure you have it. You can purchase bolts with shear heads individually.